Friday, May 31, 2013

A WARM'N'COSY "WOOLPOWER" WINTER....

Well the biting cold weather has finally abated and it's only now I'm beginning to pack away the Winter gear....and tomorrow's the 1st of flippn' JUNE!!!! 
 
Way back in early December, I was asked by Nigel of our equipment partner Alpine Sports to try out one of the new "Woolpower" base layer garments he had just become the Irish agent for and to see what I thought.
The manufacturers are committed to the production of warm undergarments and mid-layer clothing and the entire production is based in Östersund, in the northern part of Sweden.



Always delighted with a freebie and soon to be heading to the freezing highlands of Scotland for my annual "Winter Fix" I was only too delighted to give the Merino wool/polyamide sweater a go and was not only impressed with Nigels initial claims of it being "super cosy and warm" but also hooked with his claim that after wearing it daily for a week it would still smell as fresh as it did the first day I pulled it on!!!!
Now there's a challenge....especially as the weather forecast was for 8 days of blue skys and sunshine which meant we would be climbing EVERY day and sweating buckets!!!!  

 
 
If you’re only out for a day or two, that’s something you can get over, but if you’re out for more than that ,well the stink definitely becomes an issue. I have until now always used synthetic baselayers, but since going for merino I will not look back, the no-smell factor alone is a winner for me. It is also extremely comfy on the skin and its obviously very warm. I do sweat quite a bit, summer as winter, so the warming while moist properties are a further massive benefit. The product I was wearing was the "crewneck 200" and I wore it in Scotland all day every day, mostly on its own with NO OTHER over layer needed.....and sometimes with only my Rab Vapourise over it and all while climbing ice, snow and mixed.I wore it on freezing night and day climbs in the Reeks,Galtys and Comeraghs and ALWAYS remained as Nigel had boasted -

"Super Cosy'n'Comfortable, nice'n'toasty and warm....and smelling like a daisy ;-)
 

 

Ok, here's the science behind the product....
 
First off, the company uses wool as its basic ingredient because Wool keeps its shape; it insulates against both heat and cold; it's moisture-absorbing and will keep you warm even if it gets wet; it's generally bacteria-resistant; it's easy to air out, does not need to be washed often, and the hook for me- merino doesn’t smell.
The downside to wool is that it doesn't wear well. To make it last, Woolpower adds the minority ingredient of polyamide (nylon), which is strong, elastic, moisture-resistant, quick-drying, and wears well.The combination of Merino wool, which is finer than regular wool and polyamide produces a textile they've named Ullfrotte Original. The outside is smooth, and the side that goes against your skin is knit into fine loops, which act like little pockets that trap heat--the garments are essentially made up of "trapped air". The arrangement ensures that moisture is transported from the inside towards the outside, preventing sweat from sticking to your skin and freezing in below zero conditions.
Comfort is aided by the fact that the sweater and has no lengthwise seams, the back is longer to avoid gaps and the cuffs are sewn in.





You can check out and purchase the Woolpower range of baselayers, leggings and much more from our online recommended equipment partner Alpine Sports at http://www.alpinesports.ie/  

You can also read more about the Woolpower products at : http://www.woolpower.se/en/products/

Cheers Nigel and Alpine Sports for the fantastic addition to my kit and don't suppose you want me to try out the Woolpower T-shirt by any chance now that the sun has finally begun to shine?!?!?!.......

 
 

Monday, May 13, 2013

HOWL OF A TIME!!!


Yesterday was another day spent in the Reeks and boy it was a damp one I tell ya!!!

 
I was taking 2 great lads, Ian and Andrew from the South East up a route they'd had in mind for a while,the mighty Howling Ridge on Corrán Tuathail .

Howling Ridge is a steep and well defined rock climb/scramble which cuts straight up the North face and is considered a somewhat "Classic" Irish Mountaineering route. It is generally graded V Diff in summer though the crux moves can definitely feel more difficult in the wet and goes at various grades in Winter,depending on conditions. It was first climbed in the February of 1987 by two local lads Con Moriarty and John Cronin in full Winter conditions.
 
 
  I've been lucky to climb it in all manner of conditions : in scorchio weather, in perfect hard snow and neve, not too forget a mini epic dealing with terrifying black verglassed rock. Climbed it in muddy slush, in mist and fog, drizzly rain and of course side ways rain. I've climbed it at night while it covered in snow and one fond memory is soloing it with a good mate on a  fine sunny day and loved it so much we ran back down to the Heavenly Gates and climbed up it again....sure why not...though the roped party we had scampered past first time round looked with little amusement as we bounded past for a second time grinning from ear to ear like ejits!!!
Even soloed it one time on a moonlit night with a mate and we bivyed way up the route on the face, tucked snuggly in our bags behind a boulder, (even enjoyed a bottle of Heineken as a wee night cap) and climbed on in the morning by sunrise...Superb!!! 
 
 
















OK...you can slate it if you like... It's as loose as hell...I have recently begun noticing looser sections that I don't remember previous, due no doubt to the colder Winters and wetter summers and also more traffic I suppose.                                     
"Mountain Jenga"- I call it...just waiting for some unsuspecting fool to tug on the wrong one and bring the whole flippn' thing tumbling down. But hey!... the Alps are bloody loose too you know!!!


 
Howling Ridge is a great oul route....I love it....I really do..! Unlike our near neighbours in Wales and Scotland unfortunately the Irish "Mountaineer" was dealt a weaker hand... geologically so to speak... We just don't have a whole lot of multi-pitch mountaineering/scrambling/ routes so let's just accept it that no matter what the weather or whatever the conditions....with good company (or even just on your own...), Howling Ridge is a fantastic, exciting and superb day out....Just ask Ian and Andrew!!!!


Saturday, May 11, 2013

A TYPICAL WET'N'WINDY SUMMERS DAY IN THE REEKS!!!


Today I was back on Corrán Tuathail guiding two ladies on their 2nd ascent of Ireland's highest.



Their last climb had been around twenty years ago with the venture scouts and that day they'd struggled through morale sapping side ways rain and wind so today's ascent was a much more enjoyable affair even though we had a few biting showers of rain and even hail. Even though the conditions were far from what we'd normally expect for May, the girls were still rewarded for their effort with plenty of  decent clear periods in between providing them with the awe-inspiring and breathtaking views and a hugely enjoyable, satisfying and memorable day.
















We climbed via the Devil's ladder and descended by the "Zig-Zags" which was the choice of a lot of others today also.
 
 
Well the girls are making the most of their weekend visit to Killarney and are hitting the town tonight to celebrate their well earned achievement but somehow I don't think they'll be doin' too much dancing!!! 



I'm out again guiding Corrán Tuathail tomorrow, but this time by a far more steeper route - "Howling Ridge", a classic rock climb which leads straight up the vertical North face.
It has been on the tick-list of  two lads form Waterford for a while now so will post a wee update tomorrow evening of the ascent and how it all went for two more climbers keen to finally "Experience the Adventure" .... Now time to dry the rain gear, pack the rack and put the feet up by the fire...might even have a cold 1 ;-)









Saturday, April 27, 2013

A superb day in the Mighty Reeks...


Absolutely stunning day today for 5 lucky first timers on their ascent of Corrán Tuathail by the Devil's Ladder.

 A light dusting on the tops made the Reeks look all the more impressive. LOTS of others out climbing Ireland's highest by all manner of different routes and directions and even heard tales of queues at the Heavenly gates with large groups descending!
























The gang had all travelled down from Dublin specially for this climb and were overjoyed and amazed by their day spent in such magnificent and spectacular mountain scenery and of course blessed and extremely lucky to get such a truly gorgeous sunny day. Congrats and well done to them all.



Loch Caillí


















Well back out on Corrán Tuathail again tomorrow, this time guiding a group of 19, ten of which are climbing as preparations and training for their upcoming Kilimanjaro attempt with kilimanjaroachievers/ . The other 9 in the group are just up for  an exciting and exhilarating day out but guaranteed they're all up for "Experiencing some Adventure!"...

Now time for that glass of wine....



The magnificent Hags Glen

Monday, April 8, 2013

Wondrous few weeks of Winter climbing....

Well finally I get a chance to sit down and write this after a manic few weeks of amazing Winter climbing...while also in the process of moving house! After a somewhat frustrating Winter season with very little notable ascents, the first days of Spring  brought a flurry (excuse the snowy pun!!) of truly remarkable and memorable days in the hills and mountains. 
Three weeks ago we headed over to the Highlands for our annual Scottish "fix" and boy what a trip that was!!! 

Central gully of "The Cobbler"
Due to our early morning flight out of Dublin we got straight into the groove on the very day we arrived and we kicked off the week with an enjoyable ascent of the iconic jagged peak - the "Cobbler" by the easy Central Gully. This magnificent shapely rocky mountain is located in the romantically named "Arrochar Alps" which are a lovely range of hills situated at the head of Loch long, some 65km North of Glasgow, not far from Loch Lomond. And so began our week of superb weather and exhilarating gully climbs!

For Day 2 we headed to one of Scotlands finest Winter Climbing venues, Stob Coire Nan Lochan, high up above the magnificent valley of Glen Coe. Here we climbed one of the all time classic Scottish Winter climbs  - "Twisting Gully" III 4****

As we head into Stob Coire Nan Lochan
 
A hugely enjoyable route and one we'd  on our tick list for a while.We descended back down into the Corrie by a quick glissade down Broad Gully and eyeing up the impressive cliffs and buttresses were very tempted to have a crack off another "Stob Coire" classic - "Raeburn's Route". Due to the fact that we had a long week of climbing ahead of us we reluctantly decided to leave it for another day and began the long walk back to our car far below in the valley.

Day 3 and feeling a tad both lazy and tired we decided to avoid having to endure a typical monster of a Scottish walk in and instead headed to a nearby mountain called Aonach Mór which is served by a handy gondola to ferry ski-ers up its slopes. As none of the four of us had ever climbed here before we were in high spirits and excited to be broadening our knowledge of new climbing areas as well as avoiding the usual slog....The high spirits didn't last long though as an hour after leaving the top ski lift station we were seriously regretting our haste of not taking a proper look at our map and making a more precise plan of our route to the climbing corrie. Instead,in sheer stupidity we had just followed another group in the general direction we wanted to take thinking "surely" they're off to the same climbing area... Now after a half hour of hard toil we realised the party ahead of us were in fact heading elsewhere and so finally we took out the map and sorted out the route proper :-( So much for the easy walk in as we finally arrived at our objective an hour and a half after leaving the cable car!!! BUMP....

The impressive Corrie of Aonach Mór's Coire an Lochan forms part of an almost perfect spherical bowl,centred around a lochan and surrounded by stunning towering granite buttresses split with lots of deep icey gullys and snowy ridges.A tenuous traverse from our approach slope to the half way point of the corrie brought us to the realisation that climbs on the East facing walls were melting fast with alot of the routes and the ridges in particular definitely no longer in condition. Down side to praying for sunshine and bright blue skys!!! Quick look at the guide book had us deciding on a worthy objective  - "Left Twin" III/IV ***, a superb 120 metre gully climb. This route provided us with a really enjoyable bit of sport with excellent solid ice the whole way and we topped out in blistering sunshine and blue skys with barely a wisp of wind and truly breathtaking views of Ben Nevis and majestic mountains in all directions.



Day 4 and we drove the 45 minutes south to climb something  "easy" and have a rest day of sorts on the classic mountain guarding Glencoes southern end - Buachaille Etive Mór.
Buachaille Etive Mòr, meaning "the great
herdsman of Etive", generally known to climbers simply as The Buachaille is a mountain at the head of Glen Etive in almost a perfect pyramidal form, as seen from the A82 road when travelling towards Glen Coe, makes it one of the most recognisable mountains in Scotland, and one most depicted on postcards and calendars.
Buachaille Etive Mòr takes the form of a ridge nearly five miles in length, almost entirely encircled by the River Etive and its tributaries.
From our view point on the main A82 road we decided to head up the massive "Great Gully" which cuts up the North side of the peak. It was first climbed by the legendary mountaineer Norman Colllie in 1894 and is only recommended after a period of settled weather due to it being a notorious avalanche trap. As it goes by the modest grade of II/III it was the perfect route for a days soloing on a such a nice sunny day and provided us with plenty of sport with several  fine pitches of superb grade III waterice. It's massive length of over 360 metres had our calves burning like hell and again rubbished our aim of an "easy" day out !!! Even got to use the rack which we'd brought along "just in case" as we discovered a really nice 35mtr ice fall high up near the gully top. Topped out again to amazing sunshine and a breath taking mountain vista.Definitely the biggest and most enoyable gully climb both myself and Mick had ever climbed!!!
 




Day 5 and though the weather is yet AGAIN perfect for climbing we reluctantly decide to have a well earned lie-in and take a badly needed day off. We do the normal rest day stuff, browsing gear shops, picking up gifts for home and further food provisions and the sorting of the rack & gear....Later in the day we take a chilled out relaxing stroll along the banks of the beautiful and still waters of the Caledonian Canal which virtually runs right past the door of our rented Chalet. The canal runs some 62 miles (100 km) from northeast to southwest. Only one third of the entire length is man-made, the rest being formed by natural Lochs which are part of the Great Glen, a geological fault in the Earth's crust.The canal was conceived as a way of providing much-needed employment to the Highland region but even provided much needed work to Irish workers brought over to help in it's construction particularly during times of high absence by the Scottish workforce during and after the potato harvest and the peat cutting season.


Day 6 and for our final day we decided that we just HAD to get a route on Ben Nevis under our belt this week. We awoke early but not early enough and after a short drive landed at the North face car park. Plugged into our MP3s the walk in was a breeze and nothing like the previous slogs up here we'd experienced before. "One" by Metallica phased out as I arrived at the CIC hut a few minutes behind a now beaming Mick...The sun had come up about a half hour before and the mighty North face of "The Ben" sparkled in a glistening winter coat...Truly awesomeeee!! 
 
We now began the ascent up into the magnificent high bowl of "Coire Na Ciste" up to our objective for the day,the classic climb -"Green Gully" IV 4***. This 180 metre narrow gash was first climbed by another early climbing pioneer, the legendary Harold Raeburn in 1906 and went unrecognised for many years as no one would believed in those days that it could be climbed !!!

There was just one other party ahead of us and as we arrived at the first belay and  as we began to gear up I disastrously dropped our entire chain of 6 screwgate Krabs and watched as they whizzed away like a flash  out of sight far below to the Corrie floor..DoooHHHHH!!! Ah well...shit happens....I thought about abbing down and trying to find them but decided not to bother as the thought of all the wasted effort getting down there,flaffing about in the snow trying to find them and then the tortureous slog back up...with the high chance the next time they'd show up would be in the next thaw....Some one won't believe their luck when they find fifty quids worth!!!



Anyway we made do with the remaining Karabiners we had and the climbed the sublime route in good time considering the party on front had us waiting on each pitch. Probably a good thing in ways as it forced us to stop and fully take in,enjoy and appreciate our spectacular surroundings.Topped out yet AGAIN to gorgous bright sunshine and wonderful blue skies.We skipped and danced our way down the pony trek on a high from the weeks climbing we'd had and soon came across a stuggling Dutch walker who was having great great difficulty remaining upright without crampons. We asked if we could offer any assistance which he gladly accepted and we began short roping him slowly down the ice and snowy track until we finally emerged from the snow line. It emerged he had no equipment whatsoever!!! Not even a bag...NO map, No axe, No food, No drink...NOTHING!!! And we met plenty of other unprepared souls slipping and sliding their ways up and down.Yeah it's a track and agreed it was a lovely day but this is STILL the highest mountain in Britain and Ireland....IN WINTER!!! Hats off to the local MR teams who have to come to the aid of these clowns on a regular basis.. I commend you all...



And so ended a marvellous and super week in my most favourite place on earth, the highlands of Scotland. Seems we were rewarded for all the wild wet days we've spent slogging about over here on different trips wondering why we bother coming to this bloody place to suffer when we could be in Italy or France or just ANYWHERE else!!! Scotland is magnificent... it's breathtaking landscape, wildlife and it's stunning scenery, it's spectacular mountains and climbing and of course it's people make it a truly special place....My faith has been restored ;-)


Since returning from my Scottish trip I've been lucky to enjoy some really excellent "nights" out ice climbing in the wonderful Comeragh Mountains of County Waterford... Blog post in a day or 2 I promise....













































 

Friday, February 22, 2013

Proceeds from our "Vertical Adventures" lecture series presented to CORK YOUTH CLIMBING CLUB!!!

Last night I finally got around to presenting a cheque for €580 to this years benificiary of our Lecture Series - Cork Youth Climbing Club  http://www.corkyouthclimbingclub.com/




The primary role of the Cork Youth Climbing Club is to develop rock climbing in Co. Cork and to help develop and produce young climbers that can safely take part and enjoy the growing sport of outdoor rock climbing. Apart from meeting weekly in the Mardyke Arena Climbing Wall they partake in numerous trips both home and abroad. Remember that indoor climbing is only a means to an end, a tool we use to develop the necessary skills & fitness to climb outdoors. Participation in competitions such as the Youth Climbing Series is also a focal point each year in their efforts. To date the club has performed with distinction in all competitions.





We would like to say a BIG BIG thank you to ALL those who donated some really brilliant prizes for the event raffles which helped raise even more cash!!! THANKS SO MUCH TO YOU ALL!!!



We are hugely grateful to the following :
KILLARNEY HOLIDAY VILLAGE http://www.killarneyholidayvillage.com/





AGAIN A Big thanks to Our equipment partner - ALPINE SPORTS
http://www.alpinesports.ie/



DMM http://dmmclimbing.com/





CASCADE DESIGNS http://cascadedesigns.com/region.aspx



ALPKIT...... http://www.alpkit.com/









WILDCOUNTRY...http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/









Also a MASSIVE thanks to TheCorkNews and Mountaineering Ireland for again helping to promote this and ALL the other events in our lecture series by giving the talks space in their print..MUCH Appreciated!!!

http://thecorknews.ie/

http://www.mountaineering.ie/



Again a HUGE thanks to UCC Mountaineering club for all their assistance in hosting these events and also a kind thanks to ALL this years fantastic and inspiring series speakers - DERMOT SOMERS,PAUL SWAIL,JOHNNY DAWES and IAIN MILLER!!!


Saturday, February 9, 2013

FINALE TO OUR "VERTICAL ADVENTURES" LECTURE SERIES !!!!

Well last Thursday night was the final instalment of this years "Vertical Adventures" lecture series and what a fantastic way to finish with a thrilling and hugely inspiring lecture by Iain Miller of  www.uniqueascent.ie/  titled -  "SEASONS IN THE ABYSS"....

Nigel of Alpine sports,Piaras of KerryClimbing and Iain of UniqueAscent


Iain is a great guy and a gifted story teller and he gave a fascinating lecture which provided us with a blow by blow (no pun intended with reference to his wee inflatable dingy!) account of the logistics and meticulous planning involved in his many wild adventures and truly "unique" ascents off the breathtaking rugged Donegal coasts.




The main focus of this talk was Iains continuing mid life crisis, his uncontrollable addiction to fear and his love of pushing the boundaries of what a V Diff climber is capable of.
We heard all about the first Ascent of The Sturrall Headland at 750m long Ireland's longest rock climb.
We also heard the exciting tale of the first Ascent of Tormore Island, at 160m high Ireland's highest sea stack and of the 2nd ascent (41 years after the first and only other ascent) of the impressive Eagles Rock in Glenade, Leitrim, at 330m high and classed as Ireland's highest free standing tower.



  And if all of that wasn't enough he gave us a great account of the first Ascent of "Testament to the Insane", a new route up the UK's highest sea cliff as well as tales of lots more inspiring climbs besides!!! 


During these wild Adventures Iain has swam with bull seals, paddled next to a killer whale, met and spoke to an angel (after falling 20m off a sea stack into the sea), being blown out to sea in his Lidl dingy until he lost sight of Ireland , watched his climbing partner die at his feet and off course also had an outstanding amount of fun whilst being terrified and facing mortality!!! 


A MASSIVE thanks to ALL of those who came out and attended these events and in the process helped raise the impressive sum of €627 for this years beneficiary -
Cork Youth Climbing Club !!!
http://www.corkyouthclimbingclub.com/

 

 
Again a  HUGE thanks to UCC Mountaineering club for all their assistance in hosting these events and also a kind thanks to ALL this years fantastic and inspiring series speakers - DERMOT SOMERS,PAUL SWAIL,JOHNNY DAWES and IAIN MILLER!!! 


We would also like to say a BIG BIG thank you to ALL those who donated some really brilliant prizes for the event raffles which helped raise even more cash!!! THANKS SO MUCH TO YOU ALL!!!
 



We are hugely grateful to the following :
KILLARNEY HOLIDAY VILLAGE http://www.killarneyholidayvillage.com/





AGAIN A Big thanks to Our equipment partner - ALPINE SPORTS
http://www.alpinesports.ie/




DMM http://dmmclimbing.com/






CASCADE DESIGNS http://cascadedesigns.com/region.aspx









Also a MASSIVE thanks to TheCorkNews and Mountaineering Ireland for again helping to promote this and ALL the other events in our lecture series by giving the talks space in their print..MUCH Appreciated!!!

http://thecorknews.ie/ 

http://www.mountaineering.ie/



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