And the Summer Season '14 kicks off....

Well the last few weeks have really seen things pick up with lots of enquiries in, bookings taken, courses run, walks guided and lots of fun had and hence it's taken me so long to get around to updating the Blog...

We had a manic busy Easter weekend of absolutely gorgeous weather which helped make all our guided ascents so much more enjoyable and memorable. 



















Here's a few of the super highlights of the last few weeks. 

What a phenomenal sunny day Barry got on the 14th of April for his guided full traverse of the Reeks...Absolutely roasting and my big red head shining like a traffic light at the end of the day told it all. Barry from County Antrim really couldn't have got it any better and we enjoyed a truly spectacular long day high amongst the mighty Reeks.

Cloudy enough as we began the day from the Hyro road car park where Catherine had dropped us at 7:15am and had made excellent time to reach our first summit of the day - Caher West (975mtrs) at 9:20am.
From here it was onto Caher main top 1001mtrs, Corrán Tuathail 1039mtrs,detour across the Binn Chaorach ridge to tick off Binn Chaorach 1010mtrs, cloud beginning now to break and sunshine has us loosing layers and donning our shades. Heating up now as we scramble back again across the ridge to Corrán. Quick break and descend to the top of the Ladder and up again to Cnoc an Toinne 850mtrs. After another descent a hellish slog to the summit of Cnoc an Chuillin where we got out the jet-boil and enjoyed a well earned lunch of pot noodles followed by gravy thick Hot-chocolate. Soaked in the hot sun rays for a while before off again to Maolán Buí (973mtrs) and then the impressive Cnoc na Péiste 988mtrs.


Now for the grand finale and the sensational scramble along the twisting knife edge ridge taking in the superb Big Gun 939mtrs and finally the last rocky climb to the summit of Cruach Mhór -932mtrs arriving to our final top at approx. 5:30pm.
A slow and careful descent from here to finish in Cronin's Yard at 7 O' clock at the car I'd dropped here on the evening before...

12 hours of sheer bliss spent walking and climbing amongst mighty mountains with the most awe-inspiring views. By god we've a magnificent country....and when the sun shines sure there's no where nicer.

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18th of April and a Scorchio day of Kerry Climbing...

A busy day of Kerry Climbing with an Intro Climbing course for 4 Italians and 1 Kerryman in the wonderful Gap of Dunloe and Mike away in the Reeks guiding 2 Ladies up Corrán Tuathail.

 

 

A superb sunny day spent showing the ropes high up on the wonderful airy crag ...of Bothán and a fantastico fun and hugely informative day climbing such super lines as - Raven, Agent Orange, Ljublijana, Spider and Private Investigations.

Mikes crew had a spectacular day climbing Irelands highest via the Devil's Ladder with reports of people ascending from all directions!!!

Another busy day of it the day after with Mike back guiding more up Corrán and me back Rocking the Gap with another Intro course...and more sun even!!!

 

 

 

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20th and 21st....Happy Easter!!!

Easter Monday myself and Richard were guiding 4 to the summit of Ireland's highest by the hugely exhilarating and always memorable classic - Howling Ridge. 

Liam, Dorina, John and Noreen were ascending as part of a two day course where they had spent the previous day in the beautiful Gap of Dunloe, learning the ropes so to speak and all the other skills needed to prepare them for the following days spectacular Adventure!!!
Early morning rain and low cloud soon cleared and lifted hence providing us with the awe-inspiring views and a marvelous fulfilling day was spent climbing to the summit of Corrán Tuathail by this most mind-blowing of routes.

Descended via the Heavenly Gates and finished the day with delicious soup, scones and coffee in Cronin's yard!!!

Thanks to John for staying open 'til 7:30 until we got back - the saint!!! 

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Took a few welcome days off with the family to celebrate my BIG 4 - O and lazed around doing absolutely nothing...
Well apart from a bit of cycling, Kayaking and climbing but relaxed and took it nice'n'easy later in the week on a short break to Adare in County Limerick...

Overjoyed to get a brill Birthday pressie from Mrs K of a super cool new Hybrid bike but had to order it in as they didn't have my size so still waiting impatiently :-(

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May 1st and we kicked off our first day of summer back on Corrán Tuathail...

 

 

 

Summer officially begun with sunshine, showers, cloud and mist...typical Irish summer stuff really. Guided 3 ladies to the dense grey summit via O' Sheas gully and descended back again to the sunny Hags Glen by Bóthar na Gíge...

 

 

Mountains understandably very quiet and only spotted about half a dozen others out and about. No views from above the 750mtr mark but still a hugely satisfying and enjoyable day had by all and O'Sheas feeling very atmospheric indeed...

 

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And then the Gap of Dunloe Climbing meet got planned and I got a good mate to do up a cool poster for the event...


More info Climbing.ie

A tremendous day Winter climbing on Cathair and another first ascent...

Well the weather got hotter and the T-shirt and shorts even got their first outing of the year on a recent guided ascent of Corrán but then quite unexpectedly the cold and snows briefly returned and the crampons which I'd now packed away in my "Winter Kit" box were again produced.

 

Here we go.....again!!!!

 

 

 

It had been a marvellous Winter thus far as I had ticked off an impressive 20 days out Winter climbing and I sure as hell wasn't expecting to add to it after the recent day out wearing my shorts.

 

 

But add to it I did and what a sensational day spent recently climbing on the simply phenomenal & massive North Face of Ireland's 3rd highest - Caher 1001mtrs.
I'd been climbing on this spectacular massive face just a few weeks ago and had been itching to get... back as it's an absolutely mind-blowing and truly astounding face and all to rarely frequented. Little did I think I'd be back again so soon after my last ascent but with this unexpected wee cold snap I just couldn't resist.
The previous evening I sent my mate Denis a text and he too was up for a change from the usual suspects on Corrán Tuathail and so we drove the short spin from my place just down the road at the lazy hour of 10am and enjoyed a leisurely stroll up into the stunning Coumloughra Glen.
We were both totally game and up for a "play it by ear" day and also keen to hopefully bag a "new" route in the process and so we chose an appealing, hugely attractive and twisting 300+mtr snow line which snaked its way right to the summit. 3 hours later we stood on the summit with stupendous views all around after climbing the most outstanding and enjoyable line.

 

First ascent of "Diord Fionn" - grade III.  

 

 

Caher is an incredible mountain, superb rock, awe-inspiring views and a flippin' ginormous face with crazy situations....As good as ANYWHERE!!!

More Corrán Ascents & Paddy's Weekend Killarney Adventure Race...

What an absolutely stupendous period of weather we have just had and nice timing too! On Saturday we guided a group of 3 Dublin lads to the summit of Ireland's highest on a day of beautiful blistering sunshine, light warm breezes and faultless cloudless skies.

Spectacular days like this one are all to rare at any time of the year never mind getting one in March but Saint Patrick's weekend it was and the luck of the Irish was with us for sure.

 

 

 

The lads turned up a little late to Cronin's and a tad worst for wear also to tell the truth after a wild night sampling the lively pubs of Killarney but this didn't slow them down or hold them back by any means and we had some great banter & craic as we climbed to the top of Ireland's highest via the Devil's Ladder.

The views from the top on such a stunning clear day were truly awe-inspiring and mind blowing and after a relaxing lunch break we again shouldered our light packs and descended by the outstanding Heavenly Gates track which leads across the steep and extremely airy North face of Corrán Tuathail itself before winding and meandering its way back to terra-firma and the valley floor. Leisurely made our way out the Hags Glen and finished a mighty day out guiding a great bunch of lads with coffees and cakes in Cronin's tea-room!!!!

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Later that very same evening I was back up the Hags Glen on a rescue with the MRT and here's a stunning full moon pic I was lucky to get on my way out.

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Sunday was another extremely busy day for us as not only did we have John guiding a group of 9 first timers to the top of Corrán Tuathail but we were also responsible for the Marshalling, First Aid and Safety of the spectacular mountain stage of the fantastic St Paddy's weekend Killarney Adventure Race...

 

 

The whole event passed off without incident and an absolutely wonderful morning was spent nestled in the wild and rugged depths of the stunning Black Valley and Cummeenduff Glen surrounded on all sides by the magnificent MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountains.

 

What a special place!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A truly superb event and really great to be involved once again.
Congrats and a MASSIVE well done to all participants, sponsors, supporters, to all the marshals, to Ollie and Catriona and ALL the crew at Elite Events and to each and everyone who contributed to making it yet another memorable and hugely exciting day.



 

From Winter days to warm Spring haze....

 Winter Skills and yet ANOTHER Curve Gully Ascent....

 It's been an absolutely a fantastic season of Winter Climbing and Mountaineering in the MacGillycuddy's Reeks which has allowed us run a few of our all too rare 1 day Winter Skills courses.  The latest one of these was yet again spent climbing the deep snow filled Curve Gully high on Corrán Tuathail with Zane from Cork and Aine who'd travelled down especially from Galway and was overjoyed that she did!!!

The day began showery enough but started brightening nicely as we made our way up to the first level underneath Corrán.

We spent a highly informative hour at the base of Curved learning lots of bits and bobs from Movement skills on snow, self-belay, self-arrest, Avalanche awareness, belaying using the rope alone as well as with a sling and krab, Constructing and using snow anchors such as buried axes and a Deadman Anchor.
Extremely cold with wind-chill making it feel well into the minus temps so didn't hang about here too long before heading up the gully and getting the blood flowing again. Topped out onto a cloudy summit in a strong biting cold wind within a few minutes it cleared for just long enough to grab a few impressive photos.

Descended easily down the Devils' Ladder and finished a great day with Coffee and Cake in Cronins' Tea-room.  

 



 

 

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                   Winter Climbing & Exploring high on Caher...

Headed to Coomloughra recently with Jan and Nigel to climb a 250mtr long snow gully running up the entire length of the North face of Caher.  My eyes had been drawn to this line just the previous day as I stood on the summit of Corrán Tuathail after topping out from Curve Gully on the forementioned skills course.

Slogged up the long approach to the impressive glen from the Hydro road in yucky drizzle and after grovelling up a few initial short but extremely steep wet, slimy and sloppy waterfall pitches we finally hit the snow line and though very soft and cruddy in the lower section, the top 100mtrs was truly superb and we topped out on the summit of a calm Wintery Caher just as the cloud cleared.

A fantastic adventurous day spent with great company exploring new ground.... 

 

The route called - "An Streapa" had its first ascent by Con Moriarty and Pat Falvey in 1990 and on its higher reaches we took a brand new "Left fork" to finish.  A cracking route which I doubt has had many re-ascents  but will definitely be back to climb it again when in better condition as I reckon the waterfall grovels would be peachy if iced up.
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 A wonderful day on An Stumpa and a Wild'n' Windy day guiding Corrán....

Well spent another 2 days last week working in the Reeks and what a change in 24 hours. Friday was a gorgeous but cold day spent high up on the rocky pillar of Stumpa an tSaimh more commonly known as "The Hags Tooth" assisting a filming company with a shoot for an advertisement. Spent most of the day sitting high on the Tooth dressed in tan leather jacket and jeans while acting as a body double.   A truly stunning day in the mountains with little or no cloud and only a slight but extremely cold breeze. 

Saturday it was back to more normal stuff guiding 5 in high winds and side ways rain!!! Some extreme gusts down low had me worry for a while that we may not reach the top but we persevered none the less and winds actually decreased as we got higher and so Esther and Jimmy,our visiting honeymooning couple from Dallas Texas and Orla, Anthony and Bríd from Roscommon had a wild exciting ascent in at times "testing" conditions. 

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Spring has well and truly "Sprung"!!!

 

 

What an absolutely phenomenal day out in the Reeks yesterday guiding Siobhan and Vincent from Meath to the summit of Corrán Tuathail in tremendous long awaited sunshine.

 

 

 

Not even a single wisp of cloud in the sky and hard to believe that little over a week ago I was dressed for battle with axes and crampons and Winter climbing in these magnificent mountains with hands on fire with hot-aches and 4 days ago I was knocked to the ground and bruised by ferocious winds while tackling the same very route as todays!!!
Well that's Ireland for you....ALWAYS interesting 

We climbed via the Devils Ladder and had the summit all to ourselves before leisurely making our way back to Cronin's yard via the "Zig-Zags".

The gang had a wonderful & spectacular day and witnessed the Reeks in all their splendour and glory.
 

 

 

What an unbelievable day for a first time ascent of Irelands highest....Jammy feckers!!!

Our most recent goings on....

Headed out to the Reeks Mountains late on Saturday night with 3 good mates and spent an utterly incredible and truly invigorating 9 hours climbing under a sensational full moon on Corrán Tuathails snow & ice covered North Face!!!


Forecast was cold and settled with a wetter front sweeping in by the following afternoon and so we
departed the car from Lisleibane at 11:00pm with the aim of climbing through the night and hopefully ticking off 2 routes in super Winter condition - "Collins' Gully" and then the Super classic Ice & Snow climb - "An Cumar Dheis", more popularly known as "The Lick.
Made it up to the Heavenly Gates in great time and after dressing for battle we whacked ropeless up our first objective - "Collins' Gully", the steep firm snow slope ahead illuminated by the spectacular Moon above.
A phenomenal hour or so spent whooping and yahooing our way up this and after resting a short while high up at the Gullys end and deciding to leave the very summit until the next time around we carefully traversed East across the face to pick up the track that led us back to the Heavenly Gates once again.

After collecting our climbing rack and a rope we had left here earlier we then made our way back down to the Eagles Nest and slogged our way up to the next route of the night - "The Lick".

Took a nice break before commencing this climb with Brian boiling up a pot of snow on the stove he'd brought along and we each enjoyed a delicious mug of piping hot coffee and some tasty chocolate treats to reinvigorate our tiring bodies.
We roped up for this one though and again kicked and axed our way up this wondorous Ice climb of approx. 350Mtrs+ in length. 

Initial soft and cruddy snow soon improved and every kick of each cramponed boot and every whack of each axe was simply bliss!!!

We topped out practically at the summit cross at around 5am, an impressive 2 hours  after leaving from our coffee spot far far below. We descended slowly back down into the Hags Glen via an extremely deep snow filled Devils Ladder and exhaustingly walked and part staggered our way back to Lisleibane. After the short 5 minute drive we arrived back to my place at approx. 8:30am where Catherine treated our shattered bodies to a massive big Fry up, buttery toast and buckets of piping hot tea and coffee to help re-energise our now flagging souls.
An astounding and sensational night for sure and one that'll forever rank with the most memorable and very best :-)

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A MASSIVE thanks to all those who came along recently for the superb finale of our Winter Lecture series in Cork... 

 

 

 A really inspiring and highly entertaining talk by Nick Bullock telling mad tales of Winter climbing in Scotland, New Routes ,Hard repeats, Wafer thin Ice-Climbing in New England and an attempt at the unclimbed North face of "Chamlang" and his successful first ascent of "Hunku" both in Nepal.

This was the exciting Finale to another instalment of our inspiring Winter Lecture Series which is now already into it's 3rd year. Our highly successful series of evening lectures have in the past had a host of top climbers entertain and inspire with crazy tales of first ascents and vertical adventures from home and abroad...
Hosted in Association with U.C.C Mountaineering club these talks to date have raised over €2100 for Mountain Rescue and climbing related beneficiaries with this year proceeds going to the Kerry Mountain Rescue team

 Thanks to UCC Mountaineering club for their kind assistance in hosting the series and to all those who gifted us with some truly fantastic raffle prizes.

A BIG BIG THANK YOU TO :

 

Nigel Dixon of Alpine Sports

                                                        Kerry Outdoor Sports 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                    Cascade Designs in Midleton

 

 

 

 

Paul Innes of Core Outdoor Ireland
Thanks to ALL of you who came along, helped spread the word, supported and of course - enjoyed the series. We appreciate it

 
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2014 GETS OFF TO A BUSY START.....

 

Well after the initial disappointment of cancellations and rescheduling due to the atrocious stormy weather over the festive break, it at last settled down enough for us to finally get out for plenty of work and play!!!

We were blessed to have two chilly but extremely beautiful days for Intro Rock-Climbing courses in the wonderful Gap of Dunloe.

 

The first of these was for a group of three - Brendan and Bart from East Cork and Karl from Kilkenny, and the second was for two first time visitors to Ireland, Tim from South Africa and Meghan from Florida. Both were truly stunning & calm days with a lovely dusting of white visible on Cruách Mhór and the Reeks which peeked over the Western side of the valley across from us.

 Lots of subjects covered on both days, from Anchors to Belaying to Knots, Abseiling, Technique and lots more besides.

 

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Then we had a  fantastic turnout in UCC for Part 2 in our Winter Lecture Series.
A fascinating talk titled - "A Year Chasing Ice" by Irish Adventurer and Climber Mike O'Shea who told us all about The Ice Project.

We heard exciting and riveting tales of his amazing recent expeditions with other Irish Adventurer - Dr Clare O'Leary. Facing temperatures as low as minus fifty degrees centigrade and howling gales that confined him to his tent for days on end, Mikes personal crusade to cross all of the major icecaps of the world is certainly extreme. His talk covered their travels to the worlds largest lake - frozen Lake Baikal in Northern Russia , the rarely attempted North Patagonian Icecap and his almost fatal attempt on the North Pole as well as their upcoming re-attempt where he hopes of being the first Irish team to reach the pole by foot!!! 

 

 

A highly enjoyable evening and hugely successful fundraiser for this ambitious project.

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Mountain Skills Assessment.

 

Day 1 was a gorgeous day spent assisting on an assessment on the wonderful hills overlooking Glenbeigh and Lough Caragh.

Spent the first half of the day putting the gang through their paces while ticking off the summits, cols and saddles around Seefin Mtn and then the latter part of the day into sundown and night Nav on the hills located on the Southern side of the "Windy Gap", namely "Coolroe".

Absolutely spectacular views all around and especially of the snow topped Reeks beyond to the East and l was really looking forward to heading over that way for day 2.

 

 

 

Day 2 in comparison turned out to be an extremely cold, wet and downright miserable day, spent on Corrán Tuathail.
Stayed low-ish enough, only climbing as far as the "Eagles Nest" an elevation of approx. 500mtrs just above the snowline. Testing conditions and a good tough day to be covering Nav and movement on steep ground.
Had a quick lunch in the welcome shelter of the Emergency Hut while covering grid references etc before again braving it.
Plenty of snow falling as we descended from here via the Balcony and arrived back to Cronin's well and truly sodden!!!
Spent the evening frantically drying all the gear by the fire as the plan was to head up again solo in the morning for a bit of axe action before the warmer wet front swept through in the evening and stripped it all once again. 

                         

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Howl of a time alone on a Wintery Howling Ridge...

Well the forecast was for a warmer wet front to sweep through the Reeks in the evening and so with gear dried I headed off to Corrán Tuathail to grab some last bit of axe action before all the snow was gone.



With my MP3 to keep me company I made good time to the first level meeting and stopping for a chat with some past clients on my way in the Glen. As I was yet undecided which route to go for I made a last minute decision to strike for the Heavenly Gates and climb the magnificent Howling Ridge high up on the North face!!!

Quite a bit of snow on the route but extremely soft, powdery and unconsolidated and so I climbed ever so slowly, carefully and meticulously and topped out in just under 2 hours to the most sublime vista. Descended via the Zig-Zags and strolled out the Glen as the rain arrived. A truly spectacular and at times - testing day on the mighty Howlin' of Corrán Tuathail.

 

A WHITE CHRISTMAS...

First post of the New Year and we would like to wish  all a very Happy and Adrenaline filled New Year.

We send a huge message of thanks and appreciation to everyone who has walked & climbed with us, helped and supported us, to all our friends and to all who have taken an interest & followed our page and exploits during 2013.

Here's to a fun filled, happy and safe 2014 !!!



Yet another storm is raging outside as has been the weather pattern of the last two weeks, but it hasn't been ALL bad.

Far from it in fact!!!

 

Dec 22nd:

With childminder sorted I departed from home at the foot of the snow covered Reeks at around 2pm with only one route in mind - the grade I/II Curve Gully on Corrán Tuathail.

A decent dumping of snow last night had made the mountains look VERY impressive indeed and it had been a while since I'd climbed this superb route to the top, so with axe, crampons and nice flask of hot juice all packed I drove the short distance to Lisleibane with Lily, our SARDA mountain Rescue dog and struck off into the Glen wired up with my MP3.

A truly spectacular few hours spent in the most stunning of scenery. Quite decent conditions in the gully itself with good firm turf, knee deep snow and surprising amounts of ice formed!!!

 

Topped out at 5pm and due to the reflection from the snow it was still bright enough to take a summit pic.

Descended via the Devils Ladder by headtorch and home by 7 nicely satisfied!!!!

 

 

Dec 26th, St Stephens Day:

 

Well by the time I returned to Cronin's Yard in the late afternoon it was absolutely blowing a gale and lashing down which made this days double ascent of Curved Gully on Corrán Tuathail taste all the sweeter.
Headed into a magnificent Wintery Hags Glen this morning with the hope of burning off some of the Christmas day indulgences and also in the hope of grabbing the last of some Wintery climbing before it all disappeared in the forecasted deluge.
Great to see lots and lots of people out and about with many heading up the usual suspects such as O'Sheas and of course the "Ladder".
I headed for the line less travelled, the Classic "Curve Gully" and had superb sport on my own - kicking and whacking up quite decent ice and snow to the summit of Ireland's highest. Met a friend at the top and as he too was keen for a bit of sport we carefully descended the snow filled "Central Gully" and after traversing across to the start of "Curved" I enjoyed its icy delights once again as we blissfully climbed this gem and topped out with beaming smiles.
Descended this time via the Ladder and arrived back to Cronin's as the forecasted storm arrived.

 I was contacted the following day by a local newspaper - The Kerryman who saw some pics of this ascent on Facebook and interviewed me and printed a small piece regarding this ascent..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dec 28th:

 

Managed to grab yet another superb day climbing my flavour of the week - "Curve Gully" on Corrán Tuathail.
Had fantastic day climbing this icy snow filled gem with a mate who'd driven down this morn from Dublin and my best mate Mick from Cork who was home for Christmas visiting from London.
Plenty of good ice and great snow made it a hugely enjoyable day with great company...Had so much fun that again we descended a snow filled "Central Gully" and re-climbed "Curved" a second time!!!