Thursday, November 21, 2013

Winter Mountaineering On Carrauntoohil...Start to the season.



Woke on Tuesday morning and was greeted to the most welcome of sights outside my window.
I live right underneath the MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountains and Winter had arrived during the night and blanketed them in a spectacular dusting of white!!!
Yippeeeee...
I legged it the short distance up the road with camera in hand to grab a few early morning shots.
 
 
 
After I snapped the Hags Glen Sunrise pic above, I quickly legged it home, packed the Winter gear, grabbed an ice axe and headed back out to the hills. I headed for a lovely little high mountain valley nestled beneath the Eastern slopes of Binn Chaorach and Screig Mhór called Cummeenagearagh to climb its grade I/II gully.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A most splendid time had climbing this to the col and then onto Ireland's 2nd highest - Binn Chaorach (1010mtrs). Quite a decent covering of snow and the Reeks looking absolutely spectacular so from here I couldn't resist heading across the superb ridge to Corrán Tuathail.
 
 
As expected I had the pristine summit to myself and after devouring a jammy donut I headed off for the descent down the Devils Ladder and out the Glen to home.
Had been iffy about bringing an axe but definitely warranted and so glad I did.
 
 
An utterly fantastic day and a nice decent start to the Winter season.
 
       Happy Days!!!








Monday, November 18, 2013

Gear Review - A tough test for my new Zamberlan 996 VIOZ GT boots....

One thing about working as a guide for a living is how much wear and tear your gear receives. Climbing Ireland's highest mountain on average 3-4 times a week really takes its toll on all your gear but nothing more so than your boots.

To tell the truth my last two pairs have only lasted me around 12 months each and they're not the cheap ones by any means. Obviously the soles are the thing that wears out first. The uppers I've absolutely no problem with once I make the effort to rinse, dry and wax after each outing.  I've actually got a fantastic pair of Meindls sitting in a box under the stairs for the last 8 months still waiting to be posted off to get them resoled with new Vibram soles. But it's not cheap!!! In fact it's about 100 quid including postage just to get this done, which of course is cheaper than a buying a brand new pair but it's still a hell of alot of cash. It also takes a few weeks before they are returned and hense when I need my boots on a regular basis it's just not feasible until I've another pair to substitute.
So with this in mind I popped into my local gear retailer - Kerry Outdoor Sports in Killarney to invest in a new pair of boots.

The gang in Kerry Outdoor Sports really know their stuff. They know what I do for a living and leisure and they know what is required of my gear. 

"Comfort" was number one.
I would be wearing these for anything up to 30 hours a week so they really needed to be super snug and super comfy. They needed to be light enough to be worn for long periods but without skimping on toughness.

Next was "Durability and Stability".
I would be travelling on,over and across all manner of ground type and terrain. From sloppy soft bog and mud to razor sharp scree & rock. Now I wasn't shopping for a technical boot. It wouldn't be required to take crampons and I didn't want an over stiffened sole but this said I didn't want the soles to be too flexible either.  
Climbing, scrambling, slogging and bog-trottin' I needed these boots to withstand it all. 

Next up was "Fabric type".
To avoid premature breaking down of the stitching due to the highly acidic boggy nature of our uplands I needed a boot with a full leather upper as well as minimal seam lines. 
"Waterproofness and Breathability" of course was also a major factor here. A Gore-Tex lining would be an advantage as wet or even dampish feet quite simply was NOT an option and this meant ALL year round.
Rain, hail,and snow to splitting sunshine in my shorts!!!  .


So with ALL these factors in mind and with the super assistance of the gang In KOS I came away with a pair of boots that seem to tick all the boxes and they are the Zamberlan Vioz GT's. Not quite sure what the "GT" is all about. Sounds more like the fake sticker on the back of a boy racers Corolla!!!

Now time for the Big test!!!

There is no real "breaking in" required with these boots and seeing as I'd a bit of free time before I was due to collect my daughter from school at 2, I quickly packed a small ruc-sac, grabbed the new boots from their box, and struck up into the Hags Glen behind my house with the aim of giving my new purchase a FULL ON try out!!!

Spent a rewarding few hours doing a small circuit of some of Ireland's highest tops in the MacGillycuddy's Reeks Mountains of Kerry. Firstly I headed up a rugged sandstone ridge known locally as "The Bone" to the summit of An Maolán Buí (973mtrs).



The terrain on this long rocky ridge was spot on for gauging how the Vibram soles dealt with ascending wet and slippery grade 1-2 scrambling ground. No complaints whatsoever...Absolutely perfect!!!
I was moving extremely quickly and the stiffness and aggressive traction of the soles gave me a confidence to move at the rapid pace I required. From Maolán I jogged the short distance to the lovely summit of Cnoc na Péiste.
The boots honestly felt as comfortable as my trail-runners!!! 


From here it was time to up the ante and test them even further by heading onto one of Ireland's very best high mountain scrambling routes, the short but satisfying airy knife edge "Coimín na Péiste Ridge"  to the rocky peak called the "Big Gun" and then onto the impressive lofty summit of Cruach Mhór (932mtrs). All down hill from here. Time now 11:20. Pressure is off as I know I will easily be back to do the school collection. Lots of steep rock to scramble over though on the descent as well as some scree to negotiate before then facing a 2km squelchy bog-trot back to the car.

Arrive back at for 12:30 nicely satisfied. Feet and socks are still bone dry. All the boxes remain ticked and I'm happy though my knees hurt a little...!!! 
Now off on the school run..



Comfort : Yes....

Durability: Yes....

Stability & Grip : Yes....

Waterproofness and Breathability : Yes and Yes....



Have since worn these in the mountains on three further consecutive days, one of these being a horrible wet and dreary one and still extremely happy with how they perform.

The Zamberlan 996 Vioz GT Boots are priced at €205 and are available from :
https://www.facebook.com/KerryOutdoorSports?fref=ts

Noticed a bit of scuffing alright on the toes of each boot, this probably due to the lack of a rubber protective rand around the toe area of the boots. Still though I had just completed almost 2 kilometres of steep continuous scrambling and as the boots were of leather, I was satisfied that with my usual post activity care and waxing would avoid this becoming an issue.
Still no getting away from the fact though that rubber around the toe would definitely have improved these boots even more but still a superb boot. 













 

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

OUR WINTER LECTURE SERIES RETURNS !!!

KERRYCLIMBING WINTER LECTURE SERIES IS BACK...
_________________________________________________

We are delighted to announce yet another series of exciting talks by more Top Adventurers, Mountaineers and Climbers....

Now into it's 3rd year, our highly successful series of evening lectures have in the past had a host of top climbers such as Andy Kirkpatrick, Johnny Dawes, Dermot Somers, Ricky Bell, Paul Swail and Iain Miller entertain and inspire us with crazy tales of first ascents and vertical adventures from both home and abroad...

To date these talks have  raised over €2100 for Mountain Rescue and climbing related beneficiaries and this year proceeds will be going to Kerry Mountain Rescue team

            7:30pm in the BOOLE THEATRE, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE CAMPUS, CORK
                               (click on names to check out their web-sites)
 
Wed   11th Dec :    STEPHEN VENABLES
Thurs 16th Jan :    MIKE O' SHEA
Thurs 13th Feb :    NICK BULLOCK

All talks hosted in association with UCC Mountaineering club

_____________________________________________________________________


                     STEPHEN VENABLES -
    MOUNTAINS OF SEVEN CONTINENTS

                          A lifetime of climbing adventures and first ascents

 

When Stephen led a sailing-climbing expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula this year he finally achieved his dream of climbing on all seven continents.  In this talk he includes highlights from over forty years climbing around the world, from the Eiger to Everest, Tierra del Fuego to Uganda, the Hindu Kush to the Southern Alps, Namibia to the Rockies. 
 


Stephen Venables is a writer and lecturer, former President of the Alpine Club and mountaineer, who has pioneered many new routes around the world.  In the Himalaya his first ascents include Kishtwar Shivling, Solu Tower, Panch Chuli V and new routes on Kusum Kanguru and Pungpa Ri.  In 1988, with a four man Anglo-American-Canadian team, he climbed a new route up the Kangshung Face of Everest, reaching the summit alone, without oxygen.  He has also climbed in the Alps, North America, New Zealand, Africa, South America and on the sub-antarctic island of South Georgia.


          He has published 12 books.  His first book, Painted Mountains, won the 1986 Boardman Tasker Prize.  His most recent, Higher than the Eagle Soars, won the Mountain Literature Prize at the Banff Festival, and Himalaya Alpine Style, won the Grand Prize. 


          He has appeared in several television documentaries for BBC, ITV and National Geographic, and appeared in the IMAX film Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure with Conrad Anker and Reinhold Messner.  He also wrote the screenplay for the IMAX film The Alps, which featured John Harlin following his father’s steps on the North Face of the Eiger.

          He has lectured all round the world and appeared at many mountain festivals.  During 2013 he has been busy leading a sailing-ski mountaineering expedition to Antarctica, chairing the Piolets d’Or Awards in Chamonix and taking part in the Everest 60th anniversary celebrations, with speaking engagements throughout Britain, Denmark,Hong Kong and South Africa and now Ireland!!!

            
               www.stephenvenables.com
_________________________________
 
                      MIKE O SHEA -
                A YEAR CHASING ICE
  
 Irish Adventurer Mike O Shea will be telling tales of his amazing recent expeditions. Facing temperatures as low as minus fifty degrees centigrade and howling gales that confined him to his tent for days on end, Mikes personal crusade to cross all of the major icecaps of the world is certainly extreme. His talk will cover his travels to the worlds largest lake , frozen Lake Baikal in Northern Russia , the rarely attempted North Patagonian Icecap and his almost fatal attempt on the North Pole.
 

Mike O’ Shea has travelled extensively throughout the world and has spent 5 summers in the European Alps and 1 winter, primarily in the Chamonix area, with routes like the Frendo Spur and Gervasutti Pillar to his credit. He has climbed a number of times in Scotland in the winter, primarily focussing on ice & mixed routes on Ben Nevis.
Internationally he has participated in a range of expeditions in Africa (Kilimanjaro & Mt Kenya), Nepal (Island Peak & Ama Dablam), Pakistan (K2), New Zealand (Mt Cook) and has also travelled to a wide range of countries on trips to far flung areas including Irian Jaya.
A keen skier also and has been visiting the Alps, Canada & America over the last 20 years as well as being a very experienced and acclaimed Paraglider/Paramotorist.

 
 
NICK BULLOCK - INTO THE FIRE



Winter climbing in Scotland, New Routes and Hard repeats, Thin Ice-Climbing in New England and an attempt at the unclimbed North face of "Chamlang" and the successful first ascent of "Hunku" both in Nepal.

 
Nick started climbing in 1993 while working as a Physical Education instructor in the prison service. This was a tough job, but it did leave Nick well placed to deal with the harshness of modern alpine climbing and ultimately propelled him forward into an extraordinary climbing lifestyle. Nick gave up the prison service in 2003, by which time he was already fully immersed in the climbing scene.



 
When not away on expeditions Nick bases himself in North Wales. The location suits his preference for exciting traditional routes and he has amassed an impressive head count of E7s, especially on the North Stack wall at Gogarth.
In 2006 he climbed the first ascents on Clogwyn Du, while north of the border he made the first ascent of Avenging Angel VII 8 on Ben Nevis.
In the recent strong winter seasons he has made quite an impact both in Wales and in Scotland, with a string of first ascents and hard repeats. Nick has also spent a lot of time playing on the steep icefalls around the world, ticking off numerous WI 6 routes in Canada and near Morzine in France.

Yet it is on the bigger routes were Nick has really shown his class.



His alpine record is exceptional, particularly in the Chamonix valley where he climbed the first ascent of Border Line ED3, VII 8 on the Sans Nom and the first free ascent of Omega ED3, VIII 8 on the Petites Jorasses, as well as a whole host of repeats on the north face of the Pelerin.
Nick has been on over 20 expeditions to places as far flung as Peru, Nepal, Pakistan and India, bagging many first ascents including Fear and Loathing ED3 VII 6+ A2 on Jirishanca in Peru, Central Buttress Direct ED2 VII 7 on Quitaraju in Peru, and in a 5 day alpine-style push the ED+ Central Spur of Chang Himal in Nepal.
And despite what you’ve read here Nick’s life is not all climbing; he still finds time for writing, albeit partially focussed on his favourite pastime.

In 2012 his first book was published; Echoes: One Climber’s Hard Road to Freedom has been very warmly received.
 

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Seasons come and go....

Last Saturday we were guiding Brian and Anne Marie from Kilkenny up Ireland's highest in what you could say somewhat "testing" conditions!!!
Forecast was for torrential rain in the morning but clearing to heavy showers by mid afternoon and so we departed Cronin's yard and headed into the deluge with the knowledge that hopefully it wouldn't be like this ALL day
!!!

 





 
There is no gear in the world designed to keep out the Irish rain no matter how much money you spend and so by the time we reached the start of Brother O' Sheas gully we were well and truly soaked right through but our spirits and morale were still sky high.



 
T
The gang were just so excited and delighted to be away for the weekend, a welcome break from the kids and absolutely buzzing to be amidst the wild rugged MacGillycuddys Reeks of Kerry for their first time!!!
Rewarded for the effort with superb atmospheric views and a summit to ourselves...(not surprised really considering all the bloody rain ;-0 )
A real joy and pleasure to spend a day with such a genuinely lovely and TOTALLY up for it couple!!!





You may be thinking that KerryClimbing will be taking it nice'n easy over the winter months...
Not a chance!!!  

  
Already we have plenty of bookings for the months ahead for various grades of ascents of Corrán Tuathail and others...We also will be holding lots of our skills courses over the Winter months such as Night Navigation, Mountain Proficiency, Winter/Snow skills, and of course our ever popular Scrambling Skills courses.
Although we specialise in the mountains of Kerry we also guide ALL the mountains of Munster ALL year round.....
Of course now that the days are getting shorter, our walks, scrambles and climbs begin a wee bit earlier but don't let this put you off!!!

 
 
 
These next few months are a magic time to get into the hills....

The mountains are great deal more peaceful and quiet as they are free of the summer crowds....

It is common not to meet another soul while out walking or climbing which helps you appreciate the wild and rugged scenery all the more...

Another bonus is how clear and fresh the days can be. The views are alot less hazy and so photographs are much clearer and have more clarity.

And then, when the cold North East winds bring the frosts and snows......YIPPPPPEEEEE...Happy Days....

So don't think we will be taking a break or slowing down...Nothing changes but the season!!!
 

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Been a hell of a 2 weeks for sure!!!

Just in from doing the school run and what a dirty rotten horrible day...The worst kind really. Sideways rain kinda day. So bad I won't even be so evil as to kick the dogs out into it for the day and so they lie sprawled on their backs in their beds with legs and paws in the air.
It's that time of the year again.
Ah NOOOOO!!!

Leaves and branches litter the roads, home heating oil is ordered in mad panic and comments such as "The nights are fair drawing in" are exchanged over super market trolleys as firelighters and hot-cups are grabbed from the shelves... Kids leg it up the school path with coats buttoned up to their eyes.
Ah don't I remember it well. Being sent off looking like an invading pack of E.Ts with the hoods of our parka jackets zipped up so high you couldn't even see where you were running... If first you managed to escape the attention of the bigger kids who loved to grab and swing you by the ridiculous outward furry collar then the job of escaping from the clutches of the hood was just as much a quest with many a bloodied lip caught in the chunky zips as kids hurriedly tried to return to human form before entering the classroom!!! 


It all seemed to change so fast...

Summer feels like only yesterday as I kayaked on the calm tranquil Killarney lakes with my daughter in the front cock pit slowing our boat by dipping her feet in the tepid water. Easing our vessel through spectacular limestone caves spotting ancient fossils before stopping off for delicious coffee, juice and rocky road cake on the old pier of Dinis cottage café before heading back lesurely to our launch beach. A sublime relaxing evening spent in the wilds feeling we were in fact paddling through time...
It even felt like Wolves and Eagles were spying us from the high oak forested slopes...
But the rain is belting down now and still the dogs don't stir,pretending their asleep. Terrified my attention will be drawn to them and change my mind and decide to kick them out into the deluge.
Why does it always seem to rain like this after returning from a trip away?!?!
Reminding you you're back. Back with a bang!!!
"It's all over now so get used to it buddy..." the weather gods seem to be implying...
Ridiculous I know but to me it ALWAYS seems this way.  
But hey...as the saying goes..."Far off hills are always greener" or in my case "Whiter" as the trip away which I have just returned is from climbing the towering majestic and snowy peaks of the French Alps...

And what an awesome trip it was...!!!

It actually began even before we left Kerry as just a few days before we headed away Richard and myself had arisen ridiculously early and headed to Corrán Tuathail by torch light to climb its mighty multi-pitch rock (and Veg!) climb - the superb - "Primroses". 
Graded modestly at VS but pretty stiff for the grade for sure as I'd learned on 3 previous ascents...

An invigorating feeling to be heading in a perfectly still Hags Glen at such an hour to tackle such a worthy challenge. Even the mountain sheep still slept and not a single sound could be heard as we both contemplated what excitement and adventures this day would bring. No harm getting used to having to shoulder a laden pack at an hour when we should rightly be tucked snuggly in our beds and a bit of prep no doubt for the even more ridiculous Alpine starts we would be faced with over the coming week or so, though the real reason we had headed off at "silly O' clock" was really due to the fact that I needed to be home to collect my daughter from school at 2!!!

We arrived at the base of the imposing vertical wall just as the first hint of the new dawn began to illuminate a wondrous  sky. What a truly sublime and awe-inspiring view to behold as the sun rose from behind the modest little summit of Strickeen just across the Glen from us. A truly breath-taking spectacle and we both felt it was surely a positive omen for the day ahead.

Well a most outstanding days climbing ensued for sure. In blistering sun-shine and swapping leads we carefully and meticulously ambled up the steep face. Packing away the rack at the ridges end we both headed our separate ways, Richard keen to continue enjoying the most finest of days in the mountains and I under pressure to get back to collect my 5 year old. Though I was seriously beginning to tire after the exertions of the day I still made good time out the Glen and after a quick stop off at the child-minders on the short drive home, soon I was showered and refreshed once again as I sat down with coffee in hand and gazed up at the mighty Reeks...




What an outstanding day...the route, the weather, the company....
Everything utterly superb.

Not long now and we would be off to the Alps and boy what an Adventure THAT was!!!


Blog post coming soon....



 
 



   

  

Thursday, August 15, 2013

What we've been up to....Lot's of Climbing of course!!!

I really wish I'd a little more time to sit down and update this Blog more often but that would mean I was a tad quiet and that wouldn't be so good I suppose.. It's just been so so busy out on the crags, cliffs, mountains and hills of late that I'm only getting around to it now...




Well the rain is absolutely bucketing down outside and I'm extremely glad I'm not out in the mountains or crags today for sure. We can't complain though can we. It has been a super super summer. Yeah we've had testing days too but hey it's Ireland, that's all part of the package! I just sent a client his pics of a recent days activity with us and while doing so had a quick view over the many many other great  (and admittedly - not so great) photos I've taken recently and it had me reflect on the last few weeks... For a start I'm feeling fit...never fitter to tell the truth and boy it's been a rollercoaster  with this ever changing weather I tell ya!!!





We've had blistering sunshine for an "Intro Rock Course" on the stunning sea cliffs of Dún Seanna, memorable fine days guiding the Adventurous up the mighty Howling Ridge. We've had relaxed fun days teaching climbing in the Gap of Dunloe and all the conditions imaginable from wet 'n'wild to sweet'n'clear days guiding a whole selection of different routes on Corrán Tuathail and the Reeks. We've had first timers to never again-ers, we've guided Irish, English, Scottish and Welsh, American, German, French, from the Philipines and even from Malta . We've had 6 year olds cruising up Very severes and Hvs's and experienced old timers struggle and puff...From the ages of 6 through to 68. We've had the super fit and the "not too fit"!!! The "wahooo" successes and the disappointing failures and retreats. the overjoyed and the underestimated....but that's all part of it too...nothing ventured, nothing gained. 



Now the summer's still got plenty left yet and it's far far from over...Not by a long shot!!! 
Still plenty more happening in the weeks ahead...at home and abroad!!! Yes there's mornings when I wake I feel tired...shattered in fact....Climbing Ireland's highest on average 3-4 times a week does take it's toll no matter how fit you are but once the formalities are complete, (and of course the coffee is consumed!) It doesn't take long for the senses to awake, for the adrenaline to flow and to yet again realise how incredibly lucky I am to be working at something I truly love and in surroundings and landscapes that truly inspire. Can't wait to climb Mt Brandon again on Sunday....for the second time in a week!!! And that's what's supposed to be called work...Now that's some office I tell ya ;-)
 
 
 
 

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Dog Access Restrictions in The Reeks

There was a recent post on climbing.ie regarding the "unfriendly" signs which have been erected at most access points to Ireland's highest mountain.

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5768.0.html

Much discussion ensued and yes, it is such a shame that this is the point we have arrived at - irresponsible dog owners are the detriment of those of us that like to climb with our four legged companions.  I spent many happy years doing all sorts of routes in these fine mountains with my now passed dog - she was a super climber and loved heading off with us and spending a long demanding day in the hills.  So I'm very disappointed that I am no longer allowed this pleasure with my current dogs.  The blame can not be directed at the landowners but must be directed toward the ignorance of a small few.



"Living in the foothills of the Reeks and also being a SARDA Dog Handler  (www.sardaireland.com ) with a fully qualified Mountain Rescue Dog, I would love nothing more than to ramble about the mountains in the company of my dog who is highly trained, stock tested and proven to be no threat to livestock.  Of course if there is a call out with a requirement for a search dog there is no issue with one being used – we have recently held a very successful National Training weekend in The Reeks where we were given permission to access.  So that should answer the query on whether search dogs are allowed – yes on prior permission for training or when on a shout.

Out of respect for the people that own and farm the land and are allowing us access, these are now the only times I take my dog into the Reeks.   But that’s me – being a responsible dog owner and respectful to those who are kind enough to allow me access to their land.  The unfortunate issue is that not everyone is as responsible or respectful!

The crux of the issue is this - Many dog owners think “their” dog is no threat (and most aren’t) strolling past the “Please do not bring your dog” sign to find that after leaving them off the leash when they think no one is about that the dogs start roaming off (and quite often the owner has difficulty reigning them in) and just by doing so is causing stress, endangering and very recently even causing death to livestock.  So what is a landowner to do?  Of course feel that they must take a more drastic approach and threaten those that blatantly ignore the polite request with a more off-putting sign –although people are still walking past it – may as well be giving the landowners the two fingers in doing so.

This issue stems from the ignorant dog owners – I can’t blame the landowners for being pushed towards drastic action and I’m at a loss as to what signage they can put up that everyone will stop and take notice of and respect. Yes the wording is shocking – I think that’s the whole idea. It is regrettable that those of us who can control our dogs are hit with this restriction but, the fault is with those that can’t control their dogs taking them in anyway and causing havoc and making dogs an issue for landowners in the first place."
Catherine,