It's melting in the mountains so it is !!!!

Well the sun just keeps on shining and the Mountains just keep on calling. As I sit down and finally get a chance to write this, my eyes are drawn through wide open patio doors to the stupendous view of Binn Chaorach and the Mighty Reek's. They are a truly awe-inspiring range and it's been great to be lucky enough to spend so much time out in them recently...especially in THIS weather!!! 

Been an extremely busy and at times,testing few weeks of Kerry Climbing with heaps of Corrán Tuathail ascents under my belt and some truly amazing memories gained along the way (as well as a few tasty photos). We have guided the "straight forward" to the "much more serious!", the "speedy" and the "not so rushed"....

 

 

I've enjoyed a few sensational invigorating swims surrounded by top less female French tourists in Ireland's highest lake and my stick thin freckled red legs have now got the perfect sock lines!!! 

The rock is so warm you'd almost fry a steak on it and even been spotting tiny young trout trapped in rock pools in the river Gaddach in the Hags Glen .  


 Isn't it great....By God we needed a bit of sunshine.... 

Also been a bit angered and frustrated at times too though I'm afraid...Still litter being discarded needlessly and some filthy Ejit even felt the need to have Ireland's highest "Crap" behind a summit cairn during the week....

 

Excuse my French but like - WTF!!!!....

And I was only worried about sheep crap in the streams when I was gulpin' down litres....




But lets not go into all that eh....Not in this post anyway. ....

Will leave that for another day when the rain is back lashing off the patio doors and wind is blowing the dog 'round the garden...Lets enjoy this while it lasts...

A return to Innisfallen

After the heat of yesterday where temps hit a whopping 29 degrees here in Kerry we decided to take a nice leisurely paddle last evening out to the wonderful Innisfallen Island on the beautiful Loch Lein....

Innisfallen or Inishfallen (from Irish: Inis Faithlinn, meaning "Faithlinn's island") is an island in Lough Leane; one of the three Lakes of Killarney in County Kerry, Ireland. It is home to the ruins of Innisfallen Abbey, one of the most impressive archaeological remains dating from the early Christian period found in the Killarney National Park.

 

The monastery was founded in 640 by St. Finian the Leper, and was occupied for approximately 850 years. Over a period of about 300 of these, the monks wrote the Annals of Innisfallen, which chronicle the early history of Ireland as it was known to the monks. The monks were dispossessed of the abbey on August 18, 1594, by Elizabeth I.

The location of the monastery on the island is thought to have given rise to the name Lough Leane (Irish Loch Léin), which in English means "Lake of Learning". According to tradition the Irish High King Brian Boru received his education at Innisfallen under Maelsuthain O'Carroll.^[2] Maelsuthain has been credited as the possible originator of the Annals.

 
There wasn't a ripple on the water as we left from the O'Donogue stronghold of Ross Castle and took a relaxing gentle stroll around the Island and 13th century ruins before calmly kayaking back by sunset....good for the mind,body and soul I tell ya!!! I can see why the monks set up camp here all those centurys ago...
Ireland is simply stunning....it truly is....

We are all very quick to slate this country of ours at times and yes we have our fair share of woes...but on days and evenings like these the grit and grind is quickly forgotten and fades into much smaller significance....Life is good, appreciate each and every day...things could always be worse.

 

A simply Sensational day on the classic Howling Ridge...

Today it was the turn of Ray from Gorey and Rachel from Tralee to fully Experience the Adventure as we climbed the awesome Howling Ridge in absolutely perfect conditions. 

The gang were never so up for it as we had postponed a previous date to climb it due to an unfavourable forecast, but today couldn't have been better with scorching hot sun shine and fleeting light clouds increasing the atmospheric ambience of the whole thing!!!

We departed Cronin's yard at around 10am after a relaxing mug of foamy coffee in their tea room and tipped away in the Hags Glen under no pressure as it felt we had the whole range to ourselves...I love getting into these mountains mid week as you manage to avoid the large numbers which frequent these hills come the weekend and at times you may only meet another half dozen or even less!!! Still made good time up to the Heavenly Gates considering our relaxed vibe and was surprised at the erosion on the final scramble up to the "Gates" with the large boulder which had for a few years anyway been wedged in the narrow gap of the "Gate" now resting instead half way down the steep scramble slope. Been pushed off intentionally I suspect by some well meaning individuals hoping it might clear off some of the looser boulders on its descent.

 

As we geared up and went through a few bits'n'bobs before commencing our climb we were joined at this lofty perch by another party of 2 Slovakian climbers who we had met already 100mtrs below at the Emergency hut. Here they had asked us for directions to the climb as they poured over their spread out 1:50000 map of the Reeks.... Glad we'd happened along I reckon!!!! We led off first and climbed easily and blissfully up this superb classic on bone dry warm rock at a nice easy pace, fully appreciating the views and stunning vistas across to the Eastern Reeks and beyond. We were in no rush or haste whatsoever and just wanted to savour every last moment on such a pleasing and remarkable day.




This was Rachels first ascent of Howling and Rays second after he'd had a very different ascent should we say in horrible testing conditions on a previous occasion and so we they were both keen to take it all in and just have the craic and enjoy it.....and so we did!!! We topped out to at approx 2 o clock and even had the summit to ourselves and so chilled for a while before we took the obligatory pics of the cross and headed on our descent to the Devils ladder...We arrived back in Cronin's at around half 5 ish and finished off a perfect day with a nice cold can of 7up....Ah the simple pleasures!!! A truly Magnificent day in the majestic mountains of the Kingdom... Well back up Corrán Tuathail tomorrow guiding a group up the somewhat more gradual route of the Devil's ladder...

Life is good...and so is the forecast ;-)

Howling Ridge is a steep, well defined route which cuts up the north-east face of Carrauntoohil. It is graded V Diff in summer and goes at various grades in winter, depending on conditions.

It was first climbed in February 1987 by two local climbers, Con Moriarty and John Cronin, in winter conditions. Moriarty, who led the climb, was an experienced mountaineer who four years previously had made the first ascent of Primroses Ridge – the hardest route up Carrauntoohil. He had just recently returned from a winter climbing expedition to Scotland and wanted to prove that challenging ice climbing could also be found in Ireland in the right weather. The route gets its name from Moriarty’s dog, Grimsel, who waited at the Heavenly Gates howling while the pair completed the climb.

A tremendous day for our Intro Rock course in "The Gap"....

A great day today for a group of 5 on our "Intro Rock" course in the astounding Gap of Dunloe....Weather for the day wasn't too bad at all really, just a tad overcast overall but late in the session the sun began to poke through and the ever so light breeze was just enough to keep the dreaded midge's at bay.

We began the day by covering knots and  how to tie ourselves into the rope. Everyone picked this up pretty quickly and once this was mastered we set about learning the vital skill of belaying.


Belaying refers to the technique used in climbing to exert friction on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. A climbing partner typically applies the friction at the other end of the rope whenever the climber is not moving, removing the friction from the rope whenever the climber needs more rope in order to be able to continue climbing.



Soon we were climbing some of the superb climbs on the wonderful mountain crag of "Bothán".
I had already been up here earlier in the morn before the gang had arrived and had set up ropes on the mighty fine climbs of Agent Orange, The Ego has landed, Private Investigations, Baldy,Spider and even dropped one later on the super classic of the crag - "Raven" ...

Really fantastic to see a group who bar one or two had no real previous climbing experience now climbing such difficult and challenging routes such as these!!! 

When muscles began to tire we took a break from the climbing  and headed to the top of the crag where each got to do two exciting and exhilarating abseils !!! 
A few nervous moments as each one clipped into the rope and walked backwards over the edge of a 60ft sheer drop and controlled their own descent down the  vertical sandstone cliff face....Everyone felt an enormous sense of achievement (and a huge sense of relief!) when their feet finally touched the horizontal!!! 

The day passed so quickly and soon it was time to wrap up.

With exhausted forearms and  beaming smiles we headed to the bustling Kate Kearney's for refreshments with everyone still buzzing from such an exciting and amazing day in such a truly wonderful setting. Already making plans for another days climbing, next time to the spectacular sea cliff of Dún Sheen just outside Dingle.They just couldn't get enough and  can't wait to Experience even more Kerry Adventure !!!  

A WARM'N'COSY "WOOLPOWER" WINTER....

Well the biting cold weather has finally abated and it's only now I'm beginning to pack away the Winter gear....and tomorrow's the 1st of flippn' JUNE!!!! 
 
Way back in early December, I was asked by Nigel of our equipment partner Alpine Sports to try out one of the new "Woolpower" base layer garments he had just become the Irish agent for and to see what I thought.
The manufacturers are committed to the production of warm undergarments and mid-layer clothing and the entire production is based in Östersund, in the northern part of Sweden.

Always delighted with a freebie and soon to be heading to the freezing highlands of Scotland for my annual "Winter Fix" I was only too delighted to give the Merino wool/polyamide sweater a go and was not only impressed with Nigels initial claims of it being "super cosy and warm" but also hooked with his claim that after wearing it daily for a week it would still smell as fresh as it did the first day I pulled it on!!!!
Now there's a challenge....especially as the weather forecast was for 8 days of blue skys and sunshine which meant we would be climbing EVERY day and sweating buckets!!!!  

 
 
If you’re only out for a day or two, that’s something you can get over, but if you’re out for more than that ,well the stink definitely becomes an issue. I have until now always used synthetic baselayers, but since going for merino I will not look back, the no-smell factor alone is a winner for me. It is also extremely comfy on the skin and its obviously very warm. I do sweat quite a bit, summer as winter, so the warming while moist properties are a further massive benefit. The product I was wearing was the "crewneck 200" and I wore it in Scotland all day every day, mostly on its own with NO OTHER over layer needed.....and sometimes with only my Rab Vapourise over it and all while climbing ice, snow and mixed.I wore it on freezing night and day climbs in the Reeks,Galtys and Comeraghs and ALWAYS remained as Nigel had boasted -

"Super Cosy'n'Comfortable, nice'n'toasty and warm....and smelling like a daisy ;-)
 

 
Ok, here's the science behind the product....
 
First off, the company uses wool as its basic ingredient because Wool keeps its shape; it insulates against both heat and cold; it's moisture-absorbing and will keep you warm even if it gets wet; it's generally bacteria-resistant; it's easy to air out, does not need to be washed often, and the hook for me- merino doesn’t smell.
The downside to wool is that it doesn't wear well. To make it last, Woolpower adds the minority ingredient of polyamide (nylon), which is strong, elastic, moisture-resistant, quick-drying, and wears well.The combination of Merino wool, which is finer than regular wool and polyamide produces a textile they've named Ullfrotte Original. The outside is smooth, and the side that goes against your skin is knit into fine loops, which act like little pockets that trap heat--the garments are essentially made up of "trapped air". The arrangement ensures that moisture is transported from the inside towards the outside, preventing sweat from sticking to your skin and freezing in below zero conditions.
Comfort is aided by the fact that the sweater and has no lengthwise seams, the back is longer to avoid gaps and the cuffs are sewn in.

You can check out and purchase the Woolpower range of baselayers, leggings and much more from our online recommended equipment partner Alpine Sports at http://www.alpinesports.ie/  

You can also read more about the Woolpower products at : http://www.woolpower.se/en/products/

Cheers Nigel and Alpine Sports for the fantastic addition to my kit and don't suppose you want me to try out the Woolpower T-shirt by any chance now that the sun has finally begun to shine?!?!?!.......

 
 

HOWL OF A TIME!!!

Yesterday was another day spent in the Reeks and boy it was a damp one I tell ya!!!

 
I was taking 2 great lads, Ian and Andrew from the South East up a route they'd had in mind for a while,the mighty Howling Ridge on Corrán Tuathail .

Howling Ridge is a steep and well defined rock climb/scramble which cuts straight up the North face and is considered a somewhat "Classic" Irish Mountaineering route. It is generally graded V Diff in summer though the crux moves can definitely feel more difficult in the wet and goes at various grades in Winter,depending on conditions. It was first climbed in the February of 1987 by two local lads Con Moriarty and John Cronin in full Winter conditions.
 
 
  I've been lucky to climb it in all manner of conditions : in scorchio weather, in perfect hard snow and neve, not too forget a mini epic dealing with terrifying black verglassed rock. Climbed it in muddy slush, in mist and fog, drizzly rain and of course side ways rain. I've climbed it at night while it covered in snow and one fond memory is soloing it with a good mate on a  fine sunny day and loved it so much we ran back down to the Heavenly Gates and climbed up it again....sure why not...though the roped party we had scampered past first time round looked with little amusement as we bounded past for a second time grinning from ear to ear like ejits!!!
Even soloed it one time on a moonlit night with a mate and we bivyed way up the route on the face, tucked snuggly in our bags behind a boulder, (even enjoyed a bottle of Heineken as a wee night cap) and climbed on in the morning by sunrise...Superb!!! 
 

 
















OK...you can slate it if you like... It's as loose as hell...I have recently begun noticing looser sections that I don't remember previous, due no doubt to the colder Winters and wetter summers and also more traffic I suppose.                                     
"Mountain Jenga"- I call it...just waiting for some unsuspecting fool to tug on the wrong one and bring the whole flippn' thing tumbling down. But hey!... the Alps are bloody loose too you know!!!

 
Howling Ridge is a great oul route....I love it....I really do..! Unlike our near neighbours in Wales and Scotland unfortunately the Irish "Mountaineer" was dealt a weaker hand... geologically so to speak... We just don't have a whole lot of multi-pitch mountaineering/scrambling/ routes so let's just accept it that no matter what the weather or whatever the conditions....with good company (or even just on your own...), Howling Ridge is a fantastic, exciting and superb day out....Just ask Ian and Andrew!!!!

A TYPICAL WET'N'WINDY SUMMERS DAY IN THE REEKS!!!

Today I was back on Corrán Tuathail guiding two ladies on their 2nd ascent of Ireland's highest.

Their last climb had been around twenty years ago with the venture scouts and that day they'd struggled through morale sapping side ways rain and wind so today's ascent was a much more enjoyable affair even though we had a few biting showers of rain and even hail. Even though the conditions were far from what we'd normally expect for May, the girls were still rewarded for their effort with plenty of  decent clear periods in between providing them with the awe-inspiring and breathtaking views and a hugely enjoyable, satisfying and memorable day.

We climbed via the Devil's ladder and descended by the "Zig-Zags" which was the choice of a lot of others today also.

 

 

Well the girls are making the most of their weekend visit to Killarney and are hitting the town tonight to celebrate their well earned achievement but somehow I don't think they'll be doin' too much dancing!!! 

I'm out again guiding Corrán Tuathail tomorrow, but this time by a far more steeper route - "Howling Ridge", a classic rock climb which leads straight up the vertical North face.

It has been on the tick-list of  two lads form Waterford for a while now so will post a wee update tomorrow evening of the ascent and how it all went for two more climbers keen to finally "Experience the Adventure" .... Now time to dry the rain gear, pack the rack and put the feet up by the fire...might even have a cold 1 ;-)