A tremendous day Winter climbing on Cathair and another first ascent...

Well the weather got hotter and the T-shirt and shorts even got their first outing of the year on a recent guided ascent of Corrán but then quite unexpectedly the cold and snows briefly returned and the crampons which I'd now packed away in my "Winter Kit" box were again produced.

 

Here we go.....again!!!!

 

 

 

It had been a marvellous Winter thus far as I had ticked off an impressive 20 days out Winter climbing and I sure as hell wasn't expecting to add to it after the recent day out wearing my shorts.

 

 

But add to it I did and what a sensational day spent recently climbing on the simply phenomenal & massive North Face of Ireland's 3rd highest - Caher 1001mtrs.
I'd been climbing on this spectacular massive face just a few weeks ago and had been itching to get... back as it's an absolutely mind-blowing and truly astounding face and all to rarely frequented. Little did I think I'd be back again so soon after my last ascent but with this unexpected wee cold snap I just couldn't resist.
The previous evening I sent my mate Denis a text and he too was up for a change from the usual suspects on Corrán Tuathail and so we drove the short spin from my place just down the road at the lazy hour of 10am and enjoyed a leisurely stroll up into the stunning Coumloughra Glen.
We were both totally game and up for a "play it by ear" day and also keen to hopefully bag a "new" route in the process and so we chose an appealing, hugely attractive and twisting 300+mtr snow line which snaked its way right to the summit. 3 hours later we stood on the summit with stupendous views all around after climbing the most outstanding and enjoyable line.

 

First ascent of "Diord Fionn" - grade III.  

 

 

Caher is an incredible mountain, superb rock, awe-inspiring views and a flippin' ginormous face with crazy situations....As good as ANYWHERE!!!

More Corrán Ascents & Paddy's Weekend Killarney Adventure Race...

What an absolutely stupendous period of weather we have just had and nice timing too! On Saturday we guided a group of 3 Dublin lads to the summit of Ireland's highest on a day of beautiful blistering sunshine, light warm breezes and faultless cloudless skies.

Spectacular days like this one are all to rare at any time of the year never mind getting one in March but Saint Patrick's weekend it was and the luck of the Irish was with us for sure.

 

 

 

The lads turned up a little late to Cronin's and a tad worst for wear also to tell the truth after a wild night sampling the lively pubs of Killarney but this didn't slow them down or hold them back by any means and we had some great banter & craic as we climbed to the top of Ireland's highest via the Devil's Ladder.

The views from the top on such a stunning clear day were truly awe-inspiring and mind blowing and after a relaxing lunch break we again shouldered our light packs and descended by the outstanding Heavenly Gates track which leads across the steep and extremely airy North face of Corrán Tuathail itself before winding and meandering its way back to terra-firma and the valley floor. Leisurely made our way out the Hags Glen and finished a mighty day out guiding a great bunch of lads with coffees and cakes in Cronin's tea-room!!!!

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Later that very same evening I was back up the Hags Glen on a rescue with the MRT and here's a stunning full moon pic I was lucky to get on my way out.

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Sunday was another extremely busy day for us as not only did we have John guiding a group of 9 first timers to the top of Corrán Tuathail but we were also responsible for the Marshalling, First Aid and Safety of the spectacular mountain stage of the fantastic St Paddy's weekend Killarney Adventure Race...

 

 

The whole event passed off without incident and an absolutely wonderful morning was spent nestled in the wild and rugged depths of the stunning Black Valley and Cummeenduff Glen surrounded on all sides by the magnificent MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountains.

 

What a special place!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A truly superb event and really great to be involved once again.
Congrats and a MASSIVE well done to all participants, sponsors, supporters, to all the marshals, to Ollie and Catriona and ALL the crew at Elite Events and to each and everyone who contributed to making it yet another memorable and hugely exciting day.



 

From Winter days to warm Spring haze....

 Winter Skills and yet ANOTHER Curve Gully Ascent....

 It's been an absolutely a fantastic season of Winter Climbing and Mountaineering in the MacGillycuddy's Reeks which has allowed us run a few of our all too rare 1 day Winter Skills courses.  The latest one of these was yet again spent climbing the deep snow filled Curve Gully high on Corrán Tuathail with Zane from Cork and Aine who'd travelled down especially from Galway and was overjoyed that she did!!!

The day began showery enough but started brightening nicely as we made our way up to the first level underneath Corrán.

We spent a highly informative hour at the base of Curved learning lots of bits and bobs from Movement skills on snow, self-belay, self-arrest, Avalanche awareness, belaying using the rope alone as well as with a sling and krab, Constructing and using snow anchors such as buried axes and a Deadman Anchor.
Extremely cold with wind-chill making it feel well into the minus temps so didn't hang about here too long before heading up the gully and getting the blood flowing again. Topped out onto a cloudy summit in a strong biting cold wind within a few minutes it cleared for just long enough to grab a few impressive photos.

Descended easily down the Devils' Ladder and finished a great day with Coffee and Cake in Cronins' Tea-room.  

 



 

 

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                   Winter Climbing & Exploring high on Caher...

Headed to Coomloughra recently with Jan and Nigel to climb a 250mtr long snow gully running up the entire length of the North face of Caher.  My eyes had been drawn to this line just the previous day as I stood on the summit of Corrán Tuathail after topping out from Curve Gully on the forementioned skills course.

Slogged up the long approach to the impressive glen from the Hydro road in yucky drizzle and after grovelling up a few initial short but extremely steep wet, slimy and sloppy waterfall pitches we finally hit the snow line and though very soft and cruddy in the lower section, the top 100mtrs was truly superb and we topped out on the summit of a calm Wintery Caher just as the cloud cleared.

A fantastic adventurous day spent with great company exploring new ground.... 

 

The route called - "An Streapa" had its first ascent by Con Moriarty and Pat Falvey in 1990 and on its higher reaches we took a brand new "Left fork" to finish.  A cracking route which I doubt has had many re-ascents  but will definitely be back to climb it again when in better condition as I reckon the waterfall grovels would be peachy if iced up.
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 A wonderful day on An Stumpa and a Wild'n' Windy day guiding Corrán....

Well spent another 2 days last week working in the Reeks and what a change in 24 hours. Friday was a gorgeous but cold day spent high up on the rocky pillar of Stumpa an tSaimh more commonly known as "The Hags Tooth" assisting a filming company with a shoot for an advertisement. Spent most of the day sitting high on the Tooth dressed in tan leather jacket and jeans while acting as a body double.   A truly stunning day in the mountains with little or no cloud and only a slight but extremely cold breeze. 

Saturday it was back to more normal stuff guiding 5 in high winds and side ways rain!!! Some extreme gusts down low had me worry for a while that we may not reach the top but we persevered none the less and winds actually decreased as we got higher and so Esther and Jimmy,our visiting honeymooning couple from Dallas Texas and Orla, Anthony and Bríd from Roscommon had a wild exciting ascent in at times "testing" conditions. 

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Spring has well and truly "Sprung"!!!

 

 

What an absolutely phenomenal day out in the Reeks yesterday guiding Siobhan and Vincent from Meath to the summit of Corrán Tuathail in tremendous long awaited sunshine.

 

 

 

Not even a single wisp of cloud in the sky and hard to believe that little over a week ago I was dressed for battle with axes and crampons and Winter climbing in these magnificent mountains with hands on fire with hot-aches and 4 days ago I was knocked to the ground and bruised by ferocious winds while tackling the same very route as todays!!!
Well that's Ireland for you....ALWAYS interesting 

We climbed via the Devils Ladder and had the summit all to ourselves before leisurely making our way back to Cronin's yard via the "Zig-Zags".

The gang had a wonderful & spectacular day and witnessed the Reeks in all their splendour and glory.
 

 

 

What an unbelievable day for a first time ascent of Irelands highest....Jammy feckers!!!