Thursday, November 21, 2013

Winter Mountaineering On Carrauntoohil...Start to the season.



Woke on Tuesday morning and was greeted to the most welcome of sights outside my window.
I live right underneath the MacGillycuddy's Reeks mountains and Winter had arrived during the night and blanketed them in a spectacular dusting of white!!!
Yippeeeee...
I legged it the short distance up the road with camera in hand to grab a few early morning shots.
 
 
 
After I snapped the Hags Glen Sunrise pic above, I quickly legged it home, packed the Winter gear, grabbed an ice axe and headed back out to the hills. I headed for a lovely little high mountain valley nestled beneath the Eastern slopes of Binn Chaorach and Screig Mhór called Cummeenagearagh to climb its grade I/II gully.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
A most splendid time had climbing this to the col and then onto Ireland's 2nd highest - Binn Chaorach (1010mtrs). Quite a decent covering of snow and the Reeks looking absolutely spectacular so from here I couldn't resist heading across the superb ridge to Corrán Tuathail.
 
 
As expected I had the pristine summit to myself and after devouring a jammy donut I headed off for the descent down the Devils Ladder and out the Glen to home.
Had been iffy about bringing an axe but definitely warranted and so glad I did.
 
 
An utterly fantastic day and a nice decent start to the Winter season.
 
       Happy Days!!!








Monday, November 18, 2013

Gear Review - A tough test for my new Zamberlan 996 VIOZ GT boots....

One thing about working as a guide for a living is how much wear and tear your gear receives. Climbing Ireland's highest mountain on average 3-4 times a week really takes its toll on all your gear but nothing more so than your boots.

To tell the truth my last two pairs have only lasted me around 12 months each and they're not the cheap ones by any means. Obviously the soles are the thing that wears out first. The uppers I've absolutely no problem with once I make the effort to rinse, dry and wax after each outing.  I've actually got a fantastic pair of Meindls sitting in a box under the stairs for the last 8 months still waiting to be posted off to get them resoled with new Vibram soles. But it's not cheap!!! In fact it's about 100 quid including postage just to get this done, which of course is cheaper than a buying a brand new pair but it's still a hell of alot of cash. It also takes a few weeks before they are returned and hense when I need my boots on a regular basis it's just not feasible until I've another pair to substitute.
So with this in mind I popped into my local gear retailer - Kerry Outdoor Sports in Killarney to invest in a new pair of boots.

The gang in Kerry Outdoor Sports really know their stuff. They know what I do for a living and leisure and they know what is required of my gear. 

"Comfort" was number one.
I would be wearing these for anything up to 30 hours a week so they really needed to be super snug and super comfy. They needed to be light enough to be worn for long periods but without skimping on toughness.

Next was "Durability and Stability".
I would be travelling on,over and across all manner of ground type and terrain. From sloppy soft bog and mud to razor sharp scree & rock. Now I wasn't shopping for a technical boot. It wouldn't be required to take crampons and I didn't want an over stiffened sole but this said I didn't want the soles to be too flexible either.  
Climbing, scrambling, slogging and bog-trottin' I needed these boots to withstand it all. 

Next up was "Fabric type".
To avoid premature breaking down of the stitching due to the highly acidic boggy nature of our uplands I needed a boot with a full leather upper as well as minimal seam lines. 
"Waterproofness and Breathability" of course was also a major factor here. A Gore-Tex lining would be an advantage as wet or even dampish feet quite simply was NOT an option and this meant ALL year round.
Rain, hail,and snow to splitting sunshine in my shorts!!!  .


So with ALL these factors in mind and with the super assistance of the gang In KOS I came away with a pair of boots that seem to tick all the boxes and they are the Zamberlan Vioz GT's. Not quite sure what the "GT" is all about. Sounds more like the fake sticker on the back of a boy racers Corolla!!!

Now time for the Big test!!!

There is no real "breaking in" required with these boots and seeing as I'd a bit of free time before I was due to collect my daughter from school at 2, I quickly packed a small ruc-sac, grabbed the new boots from their box, and struck up into the Hags Glen behind my house with the aim of giving my new purchase a FULL ON try out!!!

Spent a rewarding few hours doing a small circuit of some of Ireland's highest tops in the MacGillycuddy's Reeks Mountains of Kerry. Firstly I headed up a rugged sandstone ridge known locally as "The Bone" to the summit of An Maolán Buí (973mtrs).



The terrain on this long rocky ridge was spot on for gauging how the Vibram soles dealt with ascending wet and slippery grade 1-2 scrambling ground. No complaints whatsoever...Absolutely perfect!!!
I was moving extremely quickly and the stiffness and aggressive traction of the soles gave me a confidence to move at the rapid pace I required. From Maolán I jogged the short distance to the lovely summit of Cnoc na Péiste.
The boots honestly felt as comfortable as my trail-runners!!! 


From here it was time to up the ante and test them even further by heading onto one of Ireland's very best high mountain scrambling routes, the short but satisfying airy knife edge "Coimín na Péiste Ridge"  to the rocky peak called the "Big Gun" and then onto the impressive lofty summit of Cruach Mhór (932mtrs). All down hill from here. Time now 11:20. Pressure is off as I know I will easily be back to do the school collection. Lots of steep rock to scramble over though on the descent as well as some scree to negotiate before then facing a 2km squelchy bog-trot back to the car.

Arrive back at for 12:30 nicely satisfied. Feet and socks are still bone dry. All the boxes remain ticked and I'm happy though my knees hurt a little...!!! 
Now off on the school run..



Comfort : Yes....

Durability: Yes....

Stability & Grip : Yes....

Waterproofness and Breathability : Yes and Yes....



Have since worn these in the mountains on three further consecutive days, one of these being a horrible wet and dreary one and still extremely happy with how they perform.

The Zamberlan 996 Vioz GT Boots are priced at €205 and are available from :
https://www.facebook.com/KerryOutdoorSports?fref=ts

Noticed a bit of scuffing alright on the toes of each boot, this probably due to the lack of a rubber protective rand around the toe area of the boots. Still though I had just completed almost 2 kilometres of steep continuous scrambling and as the boots were of leather, I was satisfied that with my usual post activity care and waxing would avoid this becoming an issue.
Still no getting away from the fact though that rubber around the toe would definitely have improved these boots even more but still a superb boot. 













 

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

OUR WINTER LECTURE SERIES RETURNS !!!

KERRYCLIMBING WINTER LECTURE SERIES IS BACK...
_________________________________________________

We are delighted to announce yet another series of exciting talks by more Top Adventurers, Mountaineers and Climbers....

Now into it's 3rd year, our highly successful series of evening lectures have in the past had a host of top climbers such as Andy Kirkpatrick, Johnny Dawes, Dermot Somers, Ricky Bell, Paul Swail and Iain Miller entertain and inspire us with crazy tales of first ascents and vertical adventures from both home and abroad...

To date these talks have  raised over €2100 for Mountain Rescue and climbing related beneficiaries and this year proceeds will be going to Kerry Mountain Rescue team

            7:30pm in the BOOLE THEATRE, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE CAMPUS, CORK
                               (click on names to check out their web-sites)
 
Wed   11th Dec :    STEPHEN VENABLES
Thurs 16th Jan :    MIKE O' SHEA
Thurs 13th Feb :    NICK BULLOCK

All talks hosted in association with UCC Mountaineering club

_____________________________________________________________________


                     STEPHEN VENABLES -
    MOUNTAINS OF SEVEN CONTINENTS

                          A lifetime of climbing adventures and first ascents

 

When Stephen led a sailing-climbing expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula this year he finally achieved his dream of climbing on all seven continents.  In this talk he includes highlights from over forty years climbing around the world, from the Eiger to Everest, Tierra del Fuego to Uganda, the Hindu Kush to the Southern Alps, Namibia to the Rockies. 
 


Stephen Venables is a writer and lecturer, former President of the Alpine Club and mountaineer, who has pioneered many new routes around the world.  In the Himalaya his first ascents include Kishtwar Shivling, Solu Tower, Panch Chuli V and new routes on Kusum Kanguru and Pungpa Ri.  In 1988, with a four man Anglo-American-Canadian team, he climbed a new route up the Kangshung Face of Everest, reaching the summit alone, without oxygen.  He has also climbed in the Alps, North America, New Zealand, Africa, South America and on the sub-antarctic island of South Georgia.


          He has published 12 books.  His first book, Painted Mountains, won the 1986 Boardman Tasker Prize.  His most recent, Higher than the Eagle Soars, won the Mountain Literature Prize at the Banff Festival, and Himalaya Alpine Style, won the Grand Prize. 


          He has appeared in several television documentaries for BBC, ITV and National Geographic, and appeared in the IMAX film Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure with Conrad Anker and Reinhold Messner.  He also wrote the screenplay for the IMAX film The Alps, which featured John Harlin following his father’s steps on the North Face of the Eiger.

          He has lectured all round the world and appeared at many mountain festivals.  During 2013 he has been busy leading a sailing-ski mountaineering expedition to Antarctica, chairing the Piolets d’Or Awards in Chamonix and taking part in the Everest 60th anniversary celebrations, with speaking engagements throughout Britain, Denmark,Hong Kong and South Africa and now Ireland!!!

            
               www.stephenvenables.com
_________________________________
 
                      MIKE O SHEA -
                A YEAR CHASING ICE
  
 Irish Adventurer Mike O Shea will be telling tales of his amazing recent expeditions. Facing temperatures as low as minus fifty degrees centigrade and howling gales that confined him to his tent for days on end, Mikes personal crusade to cross all of the major icecaps of the world is certainly extreme. His talk will cover his travels to the worlds largest lake , frozen Lake Baikal in Northern Russia , the rarely attempted North Patagonian Icecap and his almost fatal attempt on the North Pole.
 

Mike O’ Shea has travelled extensively throughout the world and has spent 5 summers in the European Alps and 1 winter, primarily in the Chamonix area, with routes like the Frendo Spur and Gervasutti Pillar to his credit. He has climbed a number of times in Scotland in the winter, primarily focussing on ice & mixed routes on Ben Nevis.
Internationally he has participated in a range of expeditions in Africa (Kilimanjaro & Mt Kenya), Nepal (Island Peak & Ama Dablam), Pakistan (K2), New Zealand (Mt Cook) and has also travelled to a wide range of countries on trips to far flung areas including Irian Jaya.
A keen skier also and has been visiting the Alps, Canada & America over the last 20 years as well as being a very experienced and acclaimed Paraglider/Paramotorist.

 
 
NICK BULLOCK - INTO THE FIRE



Winter climbing in Scotland, New Routes and Hard repeats, Thin Ice-Climbing in New England and an attempt at the unclimbed North face of "Chamlang" and the successful first ascent of "Hunku" both in Nepal.

 
Nick started climbing in 1993 while working as a Physical Education instructor in the prison service. This was a tough job, but it did leave Nick well placed to deal with the harshness of modern alpine climbing and ultimately propelled him forward into an extraordinary climbing lifestyle. Nick gave up the prison service in 2003, by which time he was already fully immersed in the climbing scene.



 
When not away on expeditions Nick bases himself in North Wales. The location suits his preference for exciting traditional routes and he has amassed an impressive head count of E7s, especially on the North Stack wall at Gogarth.
In 2006 he climbed the first ascents on Clogwyn Du, while north of the border he made the first ascent of Avenging Angel VII 8 on Ben Nevis.
In the recent strong winter seasons he has made quite an impact both in Wales and in Scotland, with a string of first ascents and hard repeats. Nick has also spent a lot of time playing on the steep icefalls around the world, ticking off numerous WI 6 routes in Canada and near Morzine in France.

Yet it is on the bigger routes were Nick has really shown his class.



His alpine record is exceptional, particularly in the Chamonix valley where he climbed the first ascent of Border Line ED3, VII 8 on the Sans Nom and the first free ascent of Omega ED3, VIII 8 on the Petites Jorasses, as well as a whole host of repeats on the north face of the Pelerin.
Nick has been on over 20 expeditions to places as far flung as Peru, Nepal, Pakistan and India, bagging many first ascents including Fear and Loathing ED3 VII 6+ A2 on Jirishanca in Peru, Central Buttress Direct ED2 VII 7 on Quitaraju in Peru, and in a 5 day alpine-style push the ED+ Central Spur of Chang Himal in Nepal.
And despite what you’ve read here Nick’s life is not all climbing; he still finds time for writing, albeit partially focussed on his favourite pastime.

In 2012 his first book was published; Echoes: One Climber’s Hard Road to Freedom has been very warmly received.